FIRST YOGA RETREAT: How Are You Really? in Kampot [Cambodia]
- Justin Lim
- Jan 28
- 17 min read
Updated: Feb 5
Asking sound questions: Why do I do yoga?
I remember attending my first ever yoga class just out of National Service, with an army friend in 2017. We had a trial at Fitness First and walked into the yoga flow thinking it would be an easy class - how wrong we were. There we were, two guys who worked out often, yet struggling to hold any poses and barely keeping up with the vinyasa flow. We had a laugh at the back of class and I didn't think much of it after.
Subsequently, in 2022, my friends and I went around boutique studios in Singapore on class pass and experienced hatha, yin, and vinyasa styles of yoga. Through which, I discovered I rather enjoyed the sequences, which sufficiently challenged my flexibility, balance and strength. By July, I signed up with Pure Yoga Singapore and began attending classes almost daily. Even 2 years later, I try to maintain at least 4-5 classes per week when in SG.
With consistent practice over the past two and a half years, I have certainly improved compared to day 1 in FF. Even today, I am aware how my physical poses (or "asanas", the practice of physical postures in Hatha yoga) may still be lacking in alignment; while my understanding of the roots and meditative aspects of yoga remains pretty much non-existent. But hey, got to relax and "trust the process" after all.
So, I started yoga by chance and perhaps some degree of curiosity, but have continued since to:
Stay active;
Train my mental and spiritual well-being (needs work); and
Maintain a lifelong practice of self-improvement.
Upside down or 'inversions' can help to slow the heart rate and make you feel a good kind of wonky.
Asking inward questions: How Are You, Really?
The theme of Yoga Barn Kampot's retreat is How Are You Really?
Since young, I have been programmed to constantly think about the future, asking questions such as:
how much preparation is needed to ace this exam, and the next?
what grades to aim for to enter the ideal secondary school, then university course?
As an adult, these same worries only take on different forms:
which high-paying career to pursue?
when is the next promotion?
how is the job market currently?
how much money do I need to provide for my parents, buy a nice house, a car, and retire by xx age?
how will the stock markets react to this and that...?
so on...
and so forth...
These questions can be endless, and tend to be (i) driven by future concerns; (ii) motivated by outward appearances or $; or (iii) beyond our control. It is okay to explore the answers to such questions, if doing so allows us to forge ahead with a plan and increase our chances of "succeeding". However, letting these thoughts overwhelm the mind can lead to fruitless rather than productive endeavours.
Yoga instructors love to say to students during class - 'be present in the moment'. Also, 'don't forget to breathe'. When I first heard these, I thought, such silly statements. Of course I am breathing, that's what humans do; I can't time travel, so of course I'm present in the moment, and anyhow what does that even mean?
But then, you pay just a little more attention to your thoughts, and you realise you were thinking about inconveniences that happened earlier at work (THE PAST); unjust refereeing decisions in an EPL game that rightly pissed you off (UGHH PGMOL); or wondering what you were going to eat for dinner later (FUTURE) - anything but the present moment. You also realise you've been holding your breath, because the yoga pose was difficult and you were losing composure and control over the breathing techniques (or "pranayama" in yoga). Even off the mat, you occasionally catch your thoughts becoming haphazard, and you start to notice you hold your breath when stressed. Now, you feel a little grateful for such simple reminders.
Being present is to still the body, quiet the mind, and observe the breath - a simple enough task when put in words, but infinitely difficult to master. I have heard stories about gruelling meditation centres in Japan where they wake you at 4am and force you to sit still for hours, observing silence throughout the day. To even have a little success in this regard, we must leave the baggage in the past, and save the future for later. Let go of all notion of time and just. bloody. exist!
So when I do find myself asking questions, I want to take a pause from the overload of "what ifs", "what could have beens" and "what next", and instead contemplate the PRESENT, INWARD questions:
How am I feeling now?
Am I calm or tense?
Am I fully cognisant or distracted?
Am I hydrated and well-rested?
How am I, really?
When asking questions, do you open yourself to the universe's response?
When we ask questions, it is normal to expect some form of response (even to a rhetorical question, we might expect a "knowing silence", or perhaps, laughter). But do you catch yourself asking sound questions, only to then meet it with a preconceived idea or bias? I sometimes observe this occurrence within myself; particularly, when I let my cynicism fester, I become more closed off and unresponsive to the universe's response to my needs and questions, such as ignoring advice of good people I meet along the way, refuting evidence that contradicts my views, or simply turning a blind eye to life's chances or coincidences.
I say this because when people approach yoga - and this includes me before 2017 - it is not uncommon for them to dismiss it as "hippie", "sissy", "lame", or say things like "this kinda spiritual stuff is not for me". These were also my preconceived notions, and sometimes still are, as these dismissive terms have a way of re-surfacing each time I broach the subject of yoga with my peers. Even though yoga has developed worldwide and become trendy enough to take on the form of a "social activity", there are still connotations attached.
During this retreat, as we spent some afternoons huddled together to learn about the more spiritual or energetical aspects of yoga, I tried to keep a more open mind to what the owner Sarah had to share, for she was a firm student and believer in these aspects of yoga. Even though she is from England, she has somehow went on to discover and learn about these age-old, Eastern practices originating from India. Similar to TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine), they may lack in scientific or medical backing, but can still provide an alternative form of healing or perspective, and tiny nuggets of "hey, that's kinda true", or "hey, I can pay more attention in this aspect which I previously ignored as I carry out my life". After all, they may offer a meaningful alternative or supplement.
Having said that, I acknowledge that it takes some effort to remain open-minded to these teachings. For instance, while doing the ecstatic dance ("chakra movement meditation"), I found myself cracking up a few times, wondering how on earth I ended up doing awkward body movements to deep, earthy tones on a yoga mat, with a diverse mix of Europeans I just met, in Kampot of all places, when I never could dance freely even with a stomach full of alcohol in a night club. Before the dance, there was also a chakra discussion session where we basically had to open up to a partner for 5 minutes - one person will talk without pause about anything under the sun, while the other listens without any response or judgment, after which the pair switches over. It was not the most comfortable experience but I can be glad I joined in each segment and took these "firsts" in stride, rather than hiding away or being cynical about it, as I often can be.
What are some new concepts I learnt at Yoga Barn Kampot?
I thought to detail down and share the various teachings attained through our short yoga retreat so I can remind myself to observe these 'natural' occurrences as and when they appear. Being cognisant of some of these teachings can allow me to make minor adjustments day-to-day. (Credits to Sarah - owner of Yoga Barn, Kampot - and her team for developing this informative summary workbook for our stay).
A. What is Yoga?
The word Yoga means Yuj, or union, and is the connection of our mind, body and soul. The practice combines asanas (physical postures); pranayama (breathwork) and meditation, done properly, yoga can offer the practitioner an enlightened state of mind. 'Chitta-vrtti-nirodah', which means the cessation of the turnings of the mind, is a reminder to center ourselves and find calmness in meditation.
I like this description:
"Yoga provides the tools to move from passion to the clarity of dispassion, from distress to de-stress, from dis-ease to ease. It relaxes us and makes us more present minded and easy going. We start going with the flow of life more readily".
B. Is Yoga... a Spider? (Yoga Sutras of Patañjali - 8 Limbs of Yoga)
Yoga Sutras of Patañjali is one of the foundational texts of classical Yoga philosophy, drawing from Buddhism teachings, and is best known for its sutras on ashtanga yoga (eight-limb yoga).
Yama (Abstinence) - personal, moral restraints controlling our thoughts, actions and speech, including:
Ahimsa - non-violence, non-injury, compassion and consideration to all living things
Satya - truthfulness in thought and intention
Asteya - non-stealing
Brahmacharya - celibacy and moderation with sexual activity
Aparigraha - non-greediness and finding contentment
Niyama (Universal observances) -
Saucha - purity or cleanliness of physical body, minds and thoughts
Santosha - contentment and gratitude
Tapas - to burn or cook, i.e., to live a fiery life of enthusiasm and persistence
Swadhyaya - self-study, reflection or discovery
Ishvarapranidhana - knowing that there is a Higher Energy than us
Asanas (Yoga postures) - to purify the body and prepare it to sit longer in meditation
Pranayama (Breath control) - breath control in order to enhance Prana (vital life force energy)
Pratyahara (Withdrawal of the senses) - e.g., Yoga Nidra (my favourite yoga class when I'm dead tired and want to lie down, but then someone starts to snore). To feel the benefits, the mind should stay awake although the body is at complete ease, while guided meditation lead you into a deeper state of rest. Occasionally, I experienced lucid dreaming in Yoga Nidra.
Dharana (Concentration of the mind) - directing the mind toward an object and keeping it there e.g., following the breath. Serves as gateway to Dhyana and Samadhi.
Dhyana (Meditation) - one point of focus during meditation.
Samadhi (Absorption or stillness) - enlightenment (the goal).
C. What are the 7 Rainbow-coloured Chakras?
Chakra is a Sanskrit word which means "Wheel of Light". and are envisioned as subtle, spinning energy centres / vortices. There are 21 minor chakras approximately, but focus tend to be on 7 major ones positioned along the spine (see below graphic). Keeping chakras balanced and open is crucial for health and life.
Based on chakra beliefs and teachings, we must observe our physical body in relation to our emotions and life experiences, and identify correlations between health ailments and energetic imbalances. An example given is how a wife who loses her husband may find her heart chakra (anahata) blocked, causing her to develop bronchitis. She may identify a correlation between the event (loss of her husband) and the heart chakra's corresponding endocrine glands (hormones, in this case the thymus gland, which develops the immune system and is tied to the lungs). Realising this link can help her honour the grief process and heal faster. Methods to balance the chakras, apart from the yoga asana poses in above graphic include Tibetan sound massage (precisely directed by placing singing bowls on or near a tensed area); Bija mantras (unique chant for each chakra in different tones); meditation; colour healing; reiki (palm healing or hands-on-body healing); & crystals.
Personal thought: while it sounds rather unscientific and I would not commit entirely to these, I recognise certain aspects in my personal ailments, such as when I experience blockages in my body (nasal, circulatory) or nervous twitches arising from stressed or heightened emotions, which may be where this chakra aspect is coming from. In any case, being observant of our body in relation to our emotions and adjusting to improve any aspect we feel requires relaxing is a sound approach.
D. Ayurveda? (No, who's Veda?)
Ayurveda is a Sanskrit word comprising Ayur, meaning life, and Veda, meaning knowledge - hence, Life Knowledge. Supposedly having existed in India for over 5,000 years, it is thought to be the oldest-surviving complete medical system in the world (source required, haha). It explains that our body is made up of 5 elements from nature: earth, air, fire, water and space. A healthy balance of each element is key to living a balanced life (by now, you should know that balance and yoga is pretty much synonymous).
From 5 elements, 3 dominant combinations exist in our body and they are called (Tri-) Doshas.
We are born with unique, distinct mix of Doshas that determine our physique, emotional and mental tendencies, and predisposition to health problems. We need to discover our original nature (Prakruti) first - our existence as influenced by circumstances outside our control, e.g., genetic DNA, time and place of birth, etc. Once we know our Prakruti (original Dosha), we can then establish our Vikruti (current Dosha imbalance). You can find your Prakruti using free online questionnaires such as this.
There is also an interesting concept that nature's time is governed by the Doshas and has a cycle that changes throughout each day (24 hours), in the form of a daily Ayurvedic routine (below):
Besides maintaining a daily practice to balance Doshas, there are also various Ayurveda teachings on diet, grooming, scents, exercise and pranayama. One such teaching is to keep a gratitude journal - 3 small wins, I am statements, prayer, affirmation, thank you notes, or below Reiki Principles (also written around Yoga Barn walls in the place we gather at for yoga):
"Just for today, I will not worry. Just for today, I will not anger. Just for today, I will do my work honestly. Just for today, I will give thanks for my many blessing. Just for today, I will be kind to my neighbour and all living things."
Final thoughts: How was Cambodia, Really?
It was great fun. We set up our Cambodia trip in a typical 3-4-3 football formation (3 nights in Siem Reap; 4 nights in Kampot; 3 nights in Phnom Penh) and thought the timing was suitable.
Siem Reap was a unique and historic place where we chased the sunset on ATVs and caught the sunrise at Angkor Wat temples (sidenote: why chase one and catch the other? Sunsets are bound to go and sunrises bound to come, so one requires haste and the other, patience). Anyhow, my first thought when I landed and took the airport transfer was - wow, this part of Cambodia is way less developed than I expected. There were scarcely any housing or development, only poorly built houses on stilts, and much red dirt and waste lying around. Immediately I am reminded how most friends I spoke to regarding Cambodia say they have been there only for community service projects - thus my initial thought was, Cambodia could still benefit from more foreign support or investment. It improved towards the city centre, and our resort at Metta Residence & Spa was lovely with great staff, but there was a lingering feeling of impoverishment already.
On our1-hour sunset ATV tour with Quad Bike, we rode around the Cambodian villages and it was reminiscent of when I went to neighbouring Laos with a volunteer group from junior college. We saw young toddlers playing in muddy waters and having the time of their lives, laughing as we rode by. Although I felt the guided path within the residential area may create potential noise and dirt pollution for the locals living there, some kids enjoyed the presence of foreigners and waved hi to us - a fine line here between friendly interaction and supporting the economy, and disruption caused by tourism.
For the AKW temples, I would suggest to pre-book a private tuk-tuk or driver for a sunrise tour, and purchase your AKW pass online to save time. We felt a 1-day pass was enough to give a flavour of the main UNESCO World Heritage site; plus we only lasted in the small circuit of Angkor Wat temple, Bayon, Banteay Kdei, Ta Keo and Ta Prohm Temple (where 2001 film Tomb Raider was filmed) before we caught temple fatigue and ended our visit. If you want to explore remote temples or sites such as Cambodian Museum of Landmines, Banteay Srei, Koulen Mountain (separate tickets), Beng Mealea or Kbal Spean (1.5km hike, with waterfalls), you may want to get their 3-day AKW pass instead.
Oh, did I mention the crazy prices for cocktails (2.50 USD during happy hour) and beers (as cheap as 0.50 USD)? Damn.
Kampot was quiet because we mainly stayed in for our Yoga Barn retreat. The city has a nice mix of food and cafe, and Kampot is supposedly known for their unique pepper. We tried a Kampot pepper crab later in Phnom Penh and fell in love with the flavour. Oh, and we had some great yoga classes and fun time getting to know all the temporary residents from around Europe - teacher and owner Sarah (England); teachers Monika (Poland) and Ian (unknown); funny guy Michel (German who sounds Aussie); Alrec (Paris, France); Paula and Megan (Netherlands); and an old and kind couple, Noel and Mary (Ireland, also Mary is the first Ambassador of Ireland to Pakistan). Pretty cool mix of people, sheep, turkeys, chicken and dog in Yoga Barn, Kampot.
Phnom Penh was the busy capital. Having just gone to Vietnam in May 2023, I draw some similarities between the 2 countries: PP is to Siem Reap what HCM is to Ha Noi - the vibrant to the rustic. Even so, we were surprised by how much we enjoyed the city overall. We stayed in a cosy colonial style boutique called La. Chronique; next to it was a delightful massage place Devatara Spa PP offering 120 mins deep Khmer massage for 36 USD (after 40% discount). There were also some great food choices including Khmer-style crab at Crab Market, Teddy Bear Restaurant, SG Noodle House (surprisingly good local SG Bak Chor Mee in PP's Russian Market); Sundown Social Club (overlooks Russian Market street); and luxurious rooftop restaurants (Living Room) and bars (Sora Bar and Whiskey Library) at Rosewood Vattanac Towers to celebrate a special occasion with a lovely night view of the city.
What left a deep and poignant impression on me during this trip was no doubt Security Prison 21 (S-21, the most notorious of 189 interrogation centres that housed prisoners for torture and execution during the Khmer Rouge from 17 Apr 1975 - 7 Jan 1979). The Communist Party of Kampuchea (by extension, Democratic Kampuchea) led by Pol Pot sought to establish year 0 and instate a classless society in Cambodia. Their leader's vision? Kill anyone tied to the previous government, foreigners, minorities (Cham Muslims and ethnic Vietnamese), intellectuals (i.e., teachers, doctors, bespectacled persons) and their entire families ("root and all"), and have everyone suffer hardships through toiling in the fields as farmers. Before long, they even begun to turn on their own leaders; in one photo, the Minister of Commerce smiling with the other leaders; in the next, he was chained up and awaiting execution. A senseless regime run by idiotic individuals.
The total casualties in the Cambodian genocide across the 4 years amounted to something between 1.5m-3m people (consensus is at 2 million). The strangest aspect of it all is despite the clear intention to execute these prisoners at S-21 (even children and infants), they engaged a photographer to take portrait photos of the prisoners - their pictures now line the boards and walls in the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, converted from the original S-21 prison. Within Block D, real skulls (hundreds or thousands) are still stored and on full display, as a reminder of the atrocities committed. The air within was the heaviest I have felt, and within the tiny cells you can have a strong sense of the conditions the prisoners underwent, just under half a century ago. Where was the rest of the world when this was happening? I realise we have a sad capacity for turning a blind eye, whether 50 years ago, or even today in Gaza. Truly dark stuff, particularly knowing that justice was not served in both cases.
"Narrow minds devoid of imagination. Intolerance, theories cut off from reality, empty terminology, usurped ideals, inflexible systems. Those are the things that really frighten me. What I absolutely fear and loathe." --- Haruki Murakami, in Kafka On The Shore
I wish the people of Cambodia and Gaza peaceful and prosperous years ahead, and justice where it is due (on Earth or beyond).
Overall thoughts: Cambodia offered many different flavours - old, new, warm, bittersweet. The colours were vivid and plentiful, from red soil, to worn-out temple brown, to the colourful cocktails and fabric and stones in Russian markets. When I talk about visiting Cambodia, the first reaction I receive is warning and caution - why? Because it is unfortunately associated with the many crime syndicate groups that have set up and are expanding their operations across Southeast Asia (Myanmar, Vietnam, Thailand...). Beautiful countries that are now places that target and kidnap individuals for scam crimes. This fear inevitably seeps in, as we were wary and carried small Swiss army knives while walking around Cambodia for protection. I hope for a crackdown on these syndicates, and that people will not be deterred from visiting Cambodia as it is a fun country with a rich history and plenty to offer.
Extra - Time; what about it?
Since we were on the subject of time, and being in the present, two quotes from two of my favourite authors, Haruki Murakami and Milan Kundera, came to mind.
"You're in a strange position all right. You're in love with a girl who is no more, jealous of a boy who's gone for ever. Even so, this emotion you're feeling is more real, and more intensely painful, than anything you've ever felt before. And there's no way out. No possibility of finding an escape. You've wandered into a labyrinth of time, and the biggest problem of all is that you have no desire at all to get out. Am I right? -- Haruki Murakami, in Kafka On The Shore
Time - particularly lost time - is associated with regret, reminiscing, and frequently, a cause of grief. Memories of lost love or kin, even nostalgia over a past age (might not even be one we have lived in) can inexplicably create a pang of sadness. This emotion can be somewhat deep and beautiful, and we return to it. But to set the mind to calmness, perhaps it is better to exit the past for good, and embrace the present time, and person you have become.
"The bowler hat was a motif in the musical composition that was Sabina's life. It returned again and again, each time with a different meaning, and all the meanings flowed through the bowler hat like water through a riverbed. I might call it Heraclitus’ (“You can’t step twice into the same river”) riverbed; the bowler hat was a bed through which each time Sabina saw another river flow, another semantic river: each time the same object would give rise to a new meaning, though all former meanings would resonate (like an echo, like a parade of echoes) together with the new one. Each new experience would resound, each time enriching the harmony. The reason why Tomas and Sabina were touched by the sight of the bowler hat in a Zurich hotel and made love almost in tears was that its black presence was not merely a reminder of their love games but also a memento of Sabina’s father and of her grandfather, who lived in a century without airplanes and cars." --- Milan Kundera, in The Unbearable Lightness of Being
In the riverbed of time that we can only step in once, instead of resisting, might it be better to just observe and appreciate each moment for its uniqueness - whether ugly or beautiful, as it is intended. To feel and be part of the flow, and find relaxation, creativity and resonance in the process (keeping an open mind while maintaining a critical perspective). Something to work on.
Peace : )
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